The waves at Plett are really different from Miuzenberg. The biggest change being my fear of sharks has been replaced by a fear of drowning. This morning the waves were simply too big for us to surf, so we went in without our boards.
The theory behind this actually makes a lot of sense. The biggest danger with surfing is having your leash snap and being stuck in the water and having to figure out a way back in. How do you do this? Well, by body surfing, obviously. Nothing like catapulting down a ten foot wave on your tummy to really get your adrenalin pumping. It was definitely a roller coaster kind of fun. Small fear of death, overwhelming sense of fun. And now if I find myself without my surf board, I’ll have a vague idea of what to do.